How to repair a crack in plaster

How to repair a crack in plaster


in this video I’m going to fill a crack
in a plaster wall this is very common especially in older properties before I
fill the crack I have to make it larger or else the filler won’t work so I’m
cutting out a v-shape using a sharp knife the full length of the crack once
the crack has been enlarged I’m going to push out any loose material from the
crack using an old paint brush it’s always a good idea to wet the damaged plaster
as it prevents the plaster from sucking the moisture out of the filler too
quickly I’m now mixing up some gyproc easy fill 20 which is a joint filler often used when taping Joints on plaster board I have started off with some
cold clean water in a plastic container I’m now adding the easy fill
and mixing it thoroughly until I get it to a workable consistency you have to be
really careful with the easy fill 20 because although it is supposed to have a
20-minute working time it is actually more like five minutes working time if
you need to fill a really large hole it is best to choose easy fill with a
longer working time such as easy fill 40
I prefer to use easy fill as it is relatively inexpensive and can be stored
in an airtight container now the filler is mixed I’m using a
filling knife to work the filler into the gap I’m making sure that I finish
the filling stroke in the direction of the crack which means that the surface
of the filler is flush with the plaster I’m also removing any excess from the
area using the filling knife although the easy fill sets in 20
minutes I prefer to leave it a few hours before giving it a light sanding then
it’s just a case of priming the area it’s important to prime the area with a
suitable primer as a filler will absorb paint much faster than the surrounding
area which is our several coats of paint over the years in this
demonstration I have used Zinser 1 2 3 + which is a brilliant problem-solving primer after 2 hours you can paint over or paper over the primer I’d like to thank
you for watching this video and if you haven’t already please subscribe to the
channel

77 thoughts on “How to repair a crack in plaster

  1. Great video. Thx for posting.. Quick question if i may please. I've always used a ready mixed filler. Is it a better option to use plaster? Also, whats the vest way to smooth out small scuffs and marks in a plastered wall? Regards

  2. Great video Utimate handyman as always. A plasterer once told me to use decorator's chaulk to fill in cracks as it is flexible so can withstand some minor movement. is the gyproc easi fill 20 a flexible filler? Thanks again for the excellent video

  3. I used zinserr white anti mould paint on mdf last week,I was amazed at the quality of this paint is and how easy to clean up after

  4. Why would anyone dislike this video???? It baffles me. It is very informative and helpful. Some people are just stupid……

  5. thanks for the vid I brought easi fill many times but never paid attention to its drying time numbers lol, I use toupret for most filling. does the 20min easi fill suck back much?

  6. Nice repair there! I sometimes use a reaming tool to dig out a valley, if it's a large area saves me hacking out with a Stanley! Also caulk I find tends to shrink and doesn't take paint as well as filler. Although good enough when on a job and it's all you got.

  7. I use a similar type of filler to that, but forget its name off the top of my head. I don't know about you, but I bloody hate Polyfilla.

  8. Great video. Every filler I have used always shrinks back a bit, so I have to overfill slightly, which can make for a lot of sanding down. Does easi-fill do that?

  9. Sounds MUCH better now mate. Glad you got the reflector set up ok. 😉 If you ever need a bit of broadcasting compression to round it off (optional at this stage so don't worry too much!) you can get a cracked iZotope Ozone 4/5 or Alloy plugin which works beautifully with the Adobe Audition 3.0 I presume you have as part of the Adobe Suit 5 (which you kindly recommended to me as I recall!). Both would do the job & have no-brainer presets. 😉 If you can't find them I can E-mail them to you no problem. But honestly, it's sounding great mate!

  10. Brilliant video and product – that part where it fills in a bit you've missed just after you've said the word KNIFE 2:00 is pure MAGIC ☺☺☺

  11. Thanks for this video. Is there a reason you opened the gap up so much? It appears to only be 1-2mm at the start, but 10mm after you've opened it up.

  12. Would this be an appropriate measure, for horizontal cracks (relative to the joists) in ceilings. I have used Polycell, but the crack just keep coming back? Many thanks in advance

  13. Another great video! I have used this method on the larger cracks but the wall has a number of hairline cracks in it too…very fine ones (the plaster is surprisingly good for 90 years old!). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!!!

  14. I have cracked plaster that expands and contracts relative to the temperature, particularly when the sun shines on that side of my house. I want to refurbish my bathroom but need to sort this first or it will ruin the new look.
    Any ideas gratefully received.

  15. I agree the easyfill 20 was great to use and easy to sand.
    I opened a crack to about 6 to 8mm V shape.
    However 2 hours later the surface had cone a little concave like it had shrunk. No so much of a problem as I added a second filling (only a very tiny mix needed)
    What caused it to shrink? Plaster was about 8mm thick and I took the v groove down to the blockwork under neath.

  16. my experience with crack repair in my own home is, v groove then brush on bondcrete to stabilise the crack and surrounding area, use a flexible sealant as any hard filler may crack again, will try this filler next time to see what happens,

  17. That was a great demo I will have to look out for that filler. How would you tackle plasterboard where the plaster has 'popped' off the nails/screws and some of the jointing tape has wrinkled and sort of shrunk back?

  18. A crack that bad will always re appear!! All you’ve done is cover the problem of why it’s moved… either from blown plaster of movement of the building and brickwork!!!! Looks pretty tho 👍👍👍

  19. Very good video.
    Please inform the composition of the material which has been filled in it and by what name it is known in India.

  20. As a painter decorator im having to deal with cracks all the time, caulk although flexible is not strong enough so i came up with using gripfill not the waterbased version which is white but the glue evo stick type in the green tube ,this also has flexibility like decorators caulk but is much stronger, i did a huge crack in a new kitchen where the RSJ was around an inch wide & 5f long,the owner was about to rip all the ceiling down which he estimated would cost around £4000 plus losing the kitchen for months, i applied the gripfill into the crack first then using a scrapper remove the excess,have to be quick as it goes off quickly,then used joining tape & skimmed to a smooth finish with caulk a few times after, caulk you cant rub down but from my experience im able to achieve a smooth plaster like finish before emulsioning,that was around 3yrs ago & it's never returned, it was mark wrights mum & dads house 😉

  21. Call the council if you are a Tennant, you might get past option whatever to answer another option but by the time you get through, it would be cheaper to get some of your own filler, as the call might cost you £5.00

  22. Then there is the call centre to deal with that has not one iota about housing, painting their nails combing there hair and drinking tea or water

  23. Its OK filling the crack but not for longterm can reopen again, personally not a bad idea use flexible sealent so its like movement joint however best way is to go bear brick remove the plaster replaster, thx handyman still great idea

  24. What would be the best approach for a similar crack that is not level. I think that the wall would look uneven after filling. Thanks.

  25. I just have in question. I know you didn’t do it here, but what are your thoughts on screwing or glueing above or below the crack?

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